From the bitter winds of a New York winter to designer shoes carrying sludge into runway venues to Rihanna and Kanye duking it out to have the best show, this New York Fashion Week was a little more than ordinary. Autumn/Winter 2016 NYFW invited new and recycled trends, from preppy looks, bare shoulders and cropped pants to large, furry coats. We’ve compiled a few of our favorites of the many trends that walked down the runways. Which designer is your favorite?
Bare Naked Shoulders:
There has been a revival of slightly scandalous, off-the-shoulder garments. This trend has been apparent even from NYFW for Spring/Summer 2016. Several designers presented bare-shouldered models, including Jeremy Scott with his retro “cowboys and aliens” inspired collection, Carolina Herrera’s classic-as-ever looks, Diane Von Furstenburg featuring Karlie Kloss in a dazzling iconic wrap dress and Marchesa’s embellished Victorian-esque gowns .
Even though these designers embraced longer hems and wide pants throughout their collections to balance out the exposure (it’s not meant for summer, after all), showing a little skin this fall and winter is encouraged according to these fashion elites.
Most every runway consisted of fur garments, and that is not an exaggeration. Whether it was a cape, dress, coat or scarf, fur was everywhere. Ana Sui, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Oscar De La Renta, Thomas Wylde, and many others featured fur in their collection. Regardless that it is in season with the cold, fur played a huge role in this fashion week, and will dominate sales next season.
Distressed Business Wear:
With the increase of casual Fridays and business casual dress codes in the workplace, there was a severe decline in the demand for business attire. Bohemian and grungy vibes flooded the runways and the stores as a result. Yet, according to these designers, business dress is back with a little twist.
Zac Posen’s preppy chic collection consisted of many pantsuits and dresses created as if they were deconstructed and put back together from scratch. Vera Wang featured many monochromatic looks with an edgy vibe by introducing combat boots and buckles, but also gave her outfits a deconstructed look. DKNY also created a deconstruction and edgy take on the business ensemble. Two’s a company, three’s a crowd.
Thom Browne’s collection (above) develops the constructed yet deconstructed look the best. Many of his business styled ensembles appear as if cut apart and sewn back together in the strangest way: suit jackets for skirts, pant suits piled on top of pant suits, and so on. No doubt due to this influence, deconstructed and edgy blazers will be flying off the racks in no time.
Battle of the Goths and preps:
Within many of the collections of this fashion week there was either a resounding macabre mood or conservative vibe, or both. Many designers such as Tory Burch, Coach, Tommy Hillfiger, J. Crew and Rachel Zoe were inspired resoundingly by preps and classic business-esque style. Many cropped pant, tweed jackets, button-up tops and even classic letterman jackets were included in collections.
Other designers were inspired by the gothic style such as Rodarte, J.Salinas, Derek Lam, Baja East—even Fenty Puma by Rihanna. Long black and red embellished dresses, Victorian tops and black lipstick were all presented on the runway.
Some designers even featured both aesthetics. Ralph Lauren (above) shifted from monochromatic, warm-toned, preppy style to 1970s Goth-rocker with Victorian-esque blouses. Marc Jacobs’s collection combined preppy garments, including cardigans, A-line skirts and bow-tied blouses. Yet Monique Lhuillier, Altauzarra and Saint Laurent were still on the 1970s train. The grunge movement popular in past seasons also still inspired Alexander Wang in his controversial collection on the strictness of women and marijuana. Youth subcultures and historical time periods are still influencing fashion trends and are inspiring designers to create timeless yet modern collections.
After a long week of fashion, designers have produced collections that embodied their brand while recycling and creating trends that will take the reins in future seasons. Fur, business wear, bare shoulders, gothic and preppy styles will be flying off the shelves and into your closets to ready you for the next season of fashion.
Photo courtesy of The New York Times