From Sportmax to Fendi, to Versace and Armani, to Giada to Prada…let’s skip the yada yada and head straight to our favorite collections during Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016.
Material Girls: Moschino
There was nothing like the look of divas in rocker-80s-glam ensembles strutting their way down the runway made of oriental rugs as the tone for the Moschino show. Jeremy Scott let the Barbie-pop themes go and let leather, ripped jeans and cigarettes shine. In an interview with WWD, Scott claimed “Bonfire of Vanities,” a movement in Spain in 1497 that represents a bonfire of all things vain and decadent, inspired the show. The motif of cigarettes and fire accelerated throughout, from subtly adding cigarette earrings to cigarette carton-inspired purses with the Moschino brand name in place of the Marlboro brand. The collection also added a dress made of a chandelier and burn splotches on gowns. “I was thinking about cigarettes and people’s addiction to fashion,” he said to WWD. The line “Fashion Kills,” also appeared on many of the garments. One thing is for sure, that Moschino’s line certainly slayed.
Crazy in Love: Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras’ show was inspired by the madly-in-love Adele H., daughter of Victor Hugo. The patches of fur, deconstruction, veils, romantic hairstyles and silhouettes, hints of Asian blossoms as well as the wild prints illustrate a romantic yet driven-mad woman. At the start of the show, a classic woman dressed in a black, structured ensemble emerged. As the show continued, florals and fur patches seeped through the outfits, creating a romantic, tattered look. As the show progressed, the looks became deconstructed, created with mix-matched textiles to enhance the impact of the final look: an Adele H. character emerged with a light blue, Asian-inspired design with a bright red blanket wrapped around her, leaving the runway with an echo of unnerving noises.
Flirty, Quirky and Thriving: MSGM
In MSGM’s line, quirky polka dots, deconstructed preppy skirts and blouses, oversized jackets and exaggerated sleeves filled the runway, creating an eccentric look in the line. Before the show, Massimo Giorgetti abnormally requested all the guests to stop taking pictures with smartphones and blasting the collection on social media. Giorgetti also claimed before the show that this collection was simply, “Just clothes. Enjoy!” MSGM certainly let the audience enjoy by embracing the mix-matched prints heavily trending at Milan Fashion Week and creating a whimsical and fun collection for the amusement of the audience.
Femme Fatale: Giamba
Lace baby dolls, innocent white dresses, shifting into zebra print and glittery sweaters to leather bandaged dresses were just of few of Giamba’s looks. This line embraced the playful and girly side to street life. The director, Valli, portrayed commercialized girly street style well. Valli experimented outside the brand’s comfort zone and embraced a more rebellious side of Giamba.
Love The Nightlife, Baby: Diesel Black Gold
With glossy, utilized sporty looks, macabre A-line miniskirts and biker jackets layered with quilted blankets, Diesel Black Gold’s first show in Milan since moving from New York Fashion Week developed a sleek take on street style. Andreas Melboastad illustrated a tough woman with chic taste who loves the city’s nightlife. Diesel Black Gold fit in well with Milan Fashion Week’s over-arching chic, elegant and modern theme.
Mona Lisa from the Nouveau Renaissance: Marni
Balloon sleeves, cutout capes and dangly earrings strutted down the runway in Marni’s show. With layers of Renaissance blouses and thick furry capes, the collection brought a classy modern elegance. “This time,” says the creative director Castiglioni to Vogue, “the proportions were important; I wanted roundness and something romantic but in a modern way.” The harlequin patterns and textures mixed with accessories created wearable art.
Through this Fashion Week, many designers were taking inspiration from historical eras. The Renaissance and Romantic periods emerged through several shows. Street style with a modern and classic twist remained prevalent as well during the week. Many designers are still struggling with the changes in fashion and are resorting to forced and experimental ensembles that fall flat without a loud voice behind the collection. As the industry braces itself for a bumpy road ahead, some designers have inspired us to wake up and realize that “Fashion Kills.”
Photos courtesy of WGSN
Cover photo courtesy of CNN